Thursday 30 August 2018

Towards Rabat.


Our favourite place to go for a coffee in Tangier is the famous Grand Cafe de Paris on the Rue Pasteur.
The staff are lovely and it's a popular place for locals to while away the time watching the world go by.
I think it was here we decided to visit Rabat


We love the 1930s feel of the Cafe de Paris and Lynne is very fond of the Croque Monsiuer, without ham obviously but still delicious. So a favourite spot to breakfast before starting the day properly.
Incidentally it also features in the movie The Bourne Ultimatum...…, We never saw Jason Bourne though.


On one day we had decided to try and find the Fondation Lorin, which held a collection of old photos of Tangier. It is in an old synagogue which is itself in the old crumbling quarter of the Medina not far from the April 9th Square, or Grand Socco, to be honest it's not that grand.  It's the bit with the trees in the photo below.

 

We did find it though, even close up its not obvious, it's hidden up the narrow passage of the jewellery shops, Rue Touahine.


We were welcomed by the "guardian" who invited us in and switched lights on for us, lovely man but unfortunately no English at all, so we got by in heavily accented French.


The photos are fascinating and show the respectable face of Tangiers past, I was rather hoping for some more salacious images from " wicked Tangiers" however what was on display was certainly very interesting. The photos are displayed over two floors and from the upstairs the history of the building as a synagogue becomes more obvious. The downstairs is occasionally used as a theatre having a stage at one end.


We found a picture of the Grand Cafe de Paris in its pomp including a rather impressive crowned statue unfortunately no longer in existence. The exhibition is free but we made a small donation to our " guardian " for upkeep.


The following day we left Dark Tarn and trundled our luggage to the railway station. We had bought our tickets previously, first class, as this booked a seat. Moroccan first class carriages have six seats to a compartment. The train was on time and our seats were very comfortable. Good job as it would be a five hour trip to Rabat.


We had booked a room in a Riad, or traditional guest house. Ours was the Riad Kalaa, which was somewhere in the maze of narrow streets and passages making up the old town or Medina.


Luckily there were some signs on the walls and with the aid of our old friend google maps we soon found the small wooden door with beautiful carved surround. We rang the bell and were invited in.
The building is over 200 years old and is very beautiful, there is an open courtyard centrally with all rooms coming off this.


We sat and drank mint tea and admired the lovely carved arches and pillars of the courtyard.


Some complimentary biscuits and pastries were much appreciated.


Much to Lynnes delight our room on the upper floor was right next to the rooftop pool.


Since we have been travelling Lynne has become a bit of  a water baby and had been missing a daily swim as it is not particularly comfortable to do so in Tangiers.


It is certainly different swimming above the Medina but is definitely welcome after a five hour train journey even one that is air-conditioned!


Our room is to the right of the pool, the wooden door just where the framework above the central courtyard meets.


The whole building is a Warren of hides holes and quirky spaces. There is also a lot of original art. A very individual touch and one we appreciated.


The cool tiles and shade are also very welcome.


We dined at the hotel and very good it was too. After dinner we had a guide recce around the local streets in a pretty vain attempt to orient ourselves with the narrow streets of the medina.


Limited success, but we did find our way back!
This is the front entrance, doesn't hint at what is inside.


We would dine and breakfast here for the next three nights. But in the morning we planned to explore a bit more of the capital of Morocco. Rabat.

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