Thursday 26 October 2017

Azulejos


Painted ceramic tiles or Azulejos, they are everywhere in Portugal. Originally introduced by the Moors around the 13th century, by the beginning of the16th century Portugal was producing its own.


Of course now we have spent a little time in the country we can distinguish between the older Manueline architecture (a Portuguese-Gothic style) to Pombaline styles. The geometric style above is Pombaline (post earthquake of 1755)


The classic blue tile decoration often seen in churches public buildings etc. I used to think the blue colour was what Azulejos referred to (Azul being Spanish for Blue) however the word is Moorish in origin and means small polished stone. I seem to remember that blue is an easy colour to fire in kilns hence Ming ceramics from China and European types such as Delft. I also think it came via the middle east so the moors legacy would seem to hold up. The decoration is painted on before firing, the pigment used is normally cobalt blue.


This is the beautiful San Bento railway station in Porto . The blue panels are surmounted by a colourful frieze above.


A more modern version can be seen in a metro station in Lisbon, its interesting that every Metro station is decorated in a different style, quite a few are very modern or art nouveau. Each sation was decorated or designed by a different contemporary artist. Almost all use tiles.
I feel that "small polished stone should more correctly refer to the other distinguishing feature of Portuguese towns and cities, the block pavements.


These consist of small blocks of limestone or basalt roughly 2" square, unbelievably laid by hand, usually in a pattern of some kind. These are occasionally quite elaborate as above but more commonly they are a simple geometric pattern. As an aesthetic thing they are very successful, as a walking surface they are less so. The slightest hint of moisture and they become unbelievably slippery! Also although they may look it they are far from level,


Lynne and I have largely abandoned flip flops and sturdy shoes and sandals with grippy soles are the order of the day. Other differences we have noticed between Portugal as opposed to Gallicia is its far more common to display affection in public, there is an awful lot of kissing goes on and its not formal!

1 comment:

  1. Interesting blog. It would be great if you can provide more details about it. Thanks you
    Thanks so much !
    Azulejos

    ReplyDelete