Our magical Via Viagem cards enabled us we were assured to travel to the town of Sintra, the traditional summer retreat of Portuguese royalty on the railway, about a 50 minute trip. However we had actually sat down on the train before we realised we had not swiped our cards at any point, so we worried a while and then disembarked to go to information to see how it was done. " simple just swipe your card over the 1 metre high and totally unsignified pillar in the middle of the vast foyer area". No machine at the entrance to the platform or even on the train as in Metro and buses, Bloody Portugal. The train stops at every station however and the reason it is popular is because it serves every suburban station. Not a problem but it is popular, not as popular however as Sintra. I was not prepared for the level of tourist dependence that Sintra represents.
We had somewhat naively felt that coming as it were ,out of season, we would probably have the place to ourselves. it was not to be. We had already decided, as there were several widely separated palces and attractions, that we would treat our initial foray into Sintra as a recce. Turned out to be a good idea.
It is horrendously steep hence the wide variety of transport being touted the minute you leave the railway station. There is the established bus route and a wide variety of tuk tuks, taxis and even a horse and carriage.
The Moorish Castle and the Palacio de Pena were shrouded in low cloud and after walking into and around the town centre we decided to pay to visit the Palacio National de Sintra. conveniently situated in the centre of town and distinct due to its remarkable twin chimmneys.
This was one of the summer residences of the Portugueses courst after being built by king Joáo in the late 14th century. The whole town is geared for tourism and to be honest I was feeling a little disappointed at its intensity. Its undeniably a pretty spot.
Most things seemed to carry a bit of tourist tax. However we bought tickets to the palace and proceeded to explore its rather rambling interior. There is a queer mix of styles as the buildings have been extensively altered and expanded over successive generations. There is however a distinct Portuguese style.
A model in the first suite of rooms illustrates the buildings layout quite nicely showing the distinct conical chimneys which ventilate the kitchens.
One of the first rooms is known as the Swan room, for obvious reasons when you see the ceiling, 27 panels of swans in various poses. painted panel cielings are quite a common sight in older Portuguese buildings and theses are particularly fine.
The views were somewhat obscured by the cloud descending from the surrounding hills but it didn't really detract from the Disneyland feel when castles emerged briefly from the mists.
It was probably a bit drafty to be a royal in the 14th century
Another ceiling surprisingly is to be found in the Magpie room, if you look really closely you can maybe see that each of the 136 birds holds a banner of King Joáo in its beak and a rose which probably refers to Philippa of Lancaster his wife in each of their claws. The red rose being the symbol of the house of Lancaster. Small world isn't it?
The tile work in the Magpie room is superb as it is throughout the palace. it pays to look closely, but even a cursory glance reveals the Moorish influence
There are many information panels with information in English. Its possible to hire an audio commentary but we didn't bother. I find it tends to lead you a little too much and I prefer to discover things by myself. This probably has the counterpoint that I miss a lot too unfortunately!
There are many individual exhibits to see, each having its own historical provenance. It probably simplifies things to say that there are three major renovations and building reigns these are King Dinis (1279-1325) King Joáo I (1385-1433) and King Manuel I (1495-1521)
In the galley rom the domed ceiling is decorated with pictures of seascapes and vessels flying the flags of the Ottomans, Dutch and Portuguese. Not a piratical English to be seen!
These were painted at the end of the 17th century and beginning of the 18th century
There is a quiet corridor which leads to what is probably the crowning glory of the Palace.
Blazons Hall. This room would have been used for formal functions and audiences of foreign dignitaries. It is a simply stunning room with a cacophony of decoration, lower down the walls are decorated with Azuelas tiles
But the real glory lies anbove in the ceiling, panel after panel of "Blazon" or Coats of Arms. This is still sought out today as a definitive record of family armorials by Costas, Castros, Ribeiros, Sousas, etc.
In the centre of course is the Royal Coat of Arms of Manuel I and surrounding that the eight lozenge shaped panels present the coats of arms of Manuels eight children.
There is an inscription that goes all the way around the room and basically explains that the arms were won through effort and loyal service and so they shall be kept.
An astonishing room.
I shot a little video of our visit.
The views out over the valley and other Palaces in sight are quite breathtaking
The Moorish influence continues with water being a big component with fountains in the gardens and even indoors.
The Christian legacy is alive and well in the Palatine Chapel. The tiles are decorated with doves representing the Holy spirit in the 15th century
There is really too much for me to go into here but suffice to say we enjoyed our visit immensely
We had lunch in the gardens and admired the many examples of tiled grottos and secret fountains.
There are some humorous frescos at the laundry area. somehow they captured a more human scale to the privileged environs above.
A lovely spot to sit and eat our sandwiches and contemplate our prospects for further visits.
We walked back along the deep valley road towards the railway station to return to Lisbon. It is lined with art, statues some of which are really very good, and its free so what's not to like?
At the railway station even the ticket office is worth examining closely! So that was one palace down, it would take a few more visits to see the rest. We are 50 minutes away by train so we will certainly return in the new year.
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