We have noticed a surprising number of differences between Spain and Portugal, people kiss in public in Portugal, not the alternate cheek formal kind but full on snogging! The Portuguese language is very similar but is pronounced totally differently and our faltering Spanish can occasionally fall on "deaf ears". Its fair to say that the portugese and Spanish have a bit of history, not all friendly.
Portugal does however, unlike Spain embrace Christmas with a vengeance, possibly because it annoys the Spanish but who cares? A rather nice thing that seems universal here, is a small thing but impresses me. Its free wrapping paper, you can find these everywhere, even ribbons and sellotape provided. Great idea...
Lynne was keen to visit a Christmas market and luckily there was one being held at the Bullring at Campo Pequeno. Lynne had wanted to see inside this building since she first saw it. It is a proper Bullring where they hold Bullfights but the architecture is decidedly Mosque like. Of course if you ask a Portuguese about the Moors they will say they were only here for a short while ( about 600 years in fact) It is a very impressive building non the less and surprisingly lots of it is underground.
The fair itself was a bit of a surprise as we were expecting the typical beer and German sausage event that has become the norm in the UK. In actual fact this was more of a craft fair with some genuinely fascinating exhibitors. Some beautiful and individual gifts were on offer.
Lynnes new favourite tipple was on offer Ginja de Obidos in a chocolate cup.
We sampled a lovely liqueur that was a creamy concoction that tasted of our favourite coffee accompaniment Pastel de nata. Unfortunately we didn't buy a bottle and we haven't come across it since. After the fair we walked towards the park that houses the Gulbenkian collection of art. Calouste Gulbenkian was an Armenian born in Turkey who acquired 5% of four middle east oil companies. He took this huge wealth to Portugal during the war and became a patron of the arts in Portugal. The museum holds his personal collection of art. There is also a modern art collection housed in a gallery within the park.
The park is a joy, a haven for wildlife of all kinds, because of the large pond in the centre there is a big population of wildfowl. Moorhens and Egyptian geese seem as tame as pets. This could well become top of our quiet places to escape the city list.
We had a coffee at one of the cafes attached to the museum before wandering out of the park and making our way to a small church we had wanted to look at for a while. It gives its name to the Metro staion at Sao Sebastio, its the small church , the Igresia de San Sebastio de Pederia. The last time we visited there was a service on and we had had a glimpse of the interior so we returned for a proper look,
The exterior is fairly plain and slightly Spanish looking with its twin bell towers. There are two quite steep stairways climbing to the entrance. There is some story that the foundations were shifted during the big earthquake but I cant find out the whole story on this. It is certainly true that the church is one of the few buildings that survived the earthquake of 1775. The church dates from 1662. The interior is a surprise and delight.
The eye lingers on oil paintings high up and frescos above, tiles with biblical scenes around the walls. It is simply beautiful. It pays to take your time as there is a lot to see. The building was rebuilt after the earthquake. and everything seems almost new. Of course it isn't....
The many paintings are of superb quality
Many of the paintings and tiled panels depict scenes from the life of Saint Sebastian.
I particularly like the twisted columns that support the upper gallery and organ. The church is 17-18th century with a few later 19th century additions. I think it is a splendid example of baroque decoration.
All the elements combine very harmoniously, fabulous........
Upon returning to Dark Tarn in the Marina we noticed that the Ana Paula, a traditional Tagus river boat was looking very Christmassy!
This is what she looks like in daylight. Dark Tarn is to be seen just behind her mast.
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