This part of the Portugese coast is renowned for two things, surf (surfing championships are held in October, Biggest wave ever surfed in Europe, 100 feet was just down the coast at Navare) , and fog.
We had planned to leave Aveiro early to take the first of the ebb tide down river, we couldn't see the opposite bank but as we live in hope we got ready to leave. We were gambling that the fog would lift at some stage and were quite happy to motor the 6-7 kilometres to the entrance in bad visibility. We knew big ships would show up on AIS which only left the small fishing boats that were a common sight in the river entrance to worry about. We buoy hopped from red can ( port hand buoy) to red can,( we stay on the starboard side of narrow channels, which is port side going out), our speed over the ground increasing as the ebb developed. We didn't take any pictures at all as it was universally grey and we were both very busy watching the blankness for shadows which would indicate something solid.
we reached the entrance and began to feel the swell which was briefly a bit unpleasant as we left through the overfalls, I plotted a course that would keep us outside the 25 metre contour (depth) as I didn't want to get caught out with a large swell suddenly breaking. There were a couple of fishing boats circling a few miles from the harbour mouth but other than them we seemed to be alone.
The fog never did lift, we sailed and motored then motorsailed in the large swells seeing two lobster pots all day, unbeknown to us three other yachts had followed us out of Aveiro and were seeing us on AIS, we however could not see them as they had receive only sets. I categorically fail to see the sense in this approach, by logical extension if everyone adopted the same short sighted attitude the system would be completely useless.DONT BE A CHEAPSKATE, Be seen get a transponder!
After 7 hours or so the fog lifted just as we approached the breakwater at Figuera de Foz and we motored up the river to find the marina entrance.
After checking in we began to explore the town a little. It was pleasant to be in the sunshine however the town did seem to be surrounded by a perpetual wall of fog.
This would sit offshore all day occasionally coming inland to blanket the beach and marina and for no apparent reason drift offshore again. We were joined in the marina by some old friends. the socialising caused us to postpone our departure and we were not in the least bothered by missing another day groping around in 50 metre visibility. Besides we could explore the town a bit more.
Our first night ashore we had enjoyed a Chinese meal in the town adjacent to the marina but to be honest it wasn't very preposseing. along the harbour was the old fort of Santa Catarina where the signal mast was located. On the day before our arrival the port was closed which is indicated by two balls being raised along with vertical green red green lights.
The balls are on Lynnes right, the port was closed a few days before due to the swell making the entrance dangerous.
The fort incidentally dates from before the peninsular war. Figuera de foz was where The Duke of Wellington landed in August 1808,The fort was built to defend the river Mondego and was recovered from the French in July of that year by the local population, undoubtedly helping the allied forces under Wellington to land. I wonder if it was foggy then?
we discovered the tourist information office and were given free tickets to a couple of museums, one of which was maritime history and marine biology. It was located along the absolutely vast beach. which conveniently has a cycle path and footpath that winds its way from one end to the other.
The ever present fogbank can be seen lurking just offshore.
The museum was a delight, a very helpful lady showed us around and described the exibits in good English. It mainly concentrated on the history of Portugese fishermen fishing for cod in dorys off the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. an industry which is now no more, the Banks having been fished out of cod years ago. We watched an interesting film of the local exodus to the Grand banks which showed the emotional cost to local populations, some villages having no adult males for the summer months,
Figuera de Foz is the most expensive marina we have stayed in for a while charging us 31euros a night however this came down to 22 euros if we stayed a week so we decided to do that as after October the 1st we would be in low season again for any marinas further south. This decision was reinforced by the total failure of the fog to shift as day after day it made its presence felt. We had no qualms about our ability to navigate, it was purely the tedious and tiring nature of keeping watch looking at nothing all day that put us off. However come Monday we would leave no matter what. In the meantime we enjoyed exploring the local sights. Brlow is an example of the local buildings with their distinctive tiled exterior, if you look closely you may notice a religious statue in a glazed corner niche.
Our other museum ticket was to the local museum in a very impressive building that also held an auditorium and library.
We really didn't know what to expect but yet again were pleasantly surprised.
We then decende the stairs to the religious art section which was refreshing for having no glass between you and the pieces so it was possible to get a good close view.
there were a couple of pictures which caught my eye,
Just off Cabo Raso about 50 miles south west of us.
This was followed by a thankfully small gallery of modern art.
There was an interesting exhibition of furniture the like of which I don't think I have ever seen before, best described as Indo-Portugese.
Also arms and armour, and dinosaurs!
The staff were very helpful, if occasionally it felt like we were being watched a little too closely!
The building next door is the rather grand home of Arts and spectacle! It has a rather wonderful mural although I am at a loss to interpret it.....Lynne assures me "its just stories Phil"
when we returned to the boat the fog was still lurking, hanging outside the marina entrance.
Our last weekend in Figuera started with a distinct change in the weather, finally the fog had lifted and a stiff northerly breeze set in. Lynne and I full of good intentions failed to get up early but none the less managed to get to the local market before noon.
This is a great place to purchase local produce, vegetables and fruit of every variety and of course fish. We had come across Percebies (gooseneck barnacles) in spain but had always avoided them as to be honest they are not what most people on first acquaintance would classify as food. They seemed to be half the price we had seen them before (usually expensive as they are difficult to collect) and we were offerd free samples by some lovely Portuguese women who demonstrated the art of the twist, to separate the tough outer skin and how to eat the succulent inner parts discarding the slightly alien looking claw. we bought a pound or so, so along with some fresh bread rolls, lunch was sorted.
I am afraid you will need to take my word for it but they are very tasty, however we have still not mastered the art of eating them.
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