We planned to get the train to Coimbra, briefly Portugal's capital in the 12th century. it is home to many medieval buildings most notable of which is probably the University and Cathedral. The journey by train takes a little over an hour. This was our first experience of Portugese trains and it was a pleasant experience, the trains are promptly on time ( usually to the minute ) and certainly not overcrowded. We left in the by now common sea fret or fog which was becoming a regular feature of this coast but as the train pulled into Coimbra we emerged into bright sunshine. After our usual visit to Tourist information to acquire a map we began the climb to the University buildings perched atop a hill in the centre of the city.
As usual, we began to wonder, not for the first time, why the Iberian peninsular ancients chose such steep places to build their cities!
After reaching what we imagined to be the summit only to be told it was the tourist exit we were directed to a last set of steps to emerge on the square of the Paco das Escolas. This was a royal court since 1131 and home to all the kings of Portugal's first dynasty. In 1537 during the reign of Joao 111 the University was finally established here, after moving finally from Lisbon.
My eye was immediately drawn to the tower, and after wandering fruitlessly around looking for information we realised we had arrived as it were through the back door (the navigators fatal flaw, the direct route ) we left the entrance and found the correct place to purchase tickets to visit some of the maginificent buildings.
There were a great many coach parties congregating outside and it became a point of honour to avoid them for the rest of the day, not always successfully!
The tower was calling and Lynne decided to seek out a shady spot while I climbed to admire the view.
I was forced to wait until the people above had descended, and as usual with these things it was not advised if you were claustrophobic or bothered by heights.
As I passed the clock mechanism and bells they chimed the hour, it was incredibly loud! Ears still ringing I emerged onto the very top of the clock tower.
Once out in the fresh air the views were stunning.
The whole city was laid out below and I quickly realised that one day was just not going to be nearly enough to see everything that Coimbra had to offer, this left the appealing prospect of a return, maybe for my birthday?
A quick selfie and a lovely chat with a couple of Irish ladies and I felt I should return to earth and find Lynne, luckily I had spotted her from on high sheltering in the shade below. She is under the small steps just above the centre of the picture below, to the left of the crowd of people.
Once reunited we made our way to the chapel of St Michael. This isn't easy to ascertain the entrance to, you need to knock and await for the door to be opened. However the awkward access is well rewarded by the glories within.
The tiled walls date from 1663 and the altarpiece is from 1605, the painted frescos on the ceilings are simply stunning. As we are becoming accustomed to in Portugal every surface is decorated. A crowning glory is the organ a quite magnificent instrument built in 1773 in Iberian baroque style.
The sense of history almost overwhelms you as the antiquity and continuity of a place seep from every carved decoration or painted scene. It is really quite humbling.
I'm afraid my pictures do not do it justice however I will upload some video which may give a better flavour of the richness of decoration.
After that we wandered over to look at the other University rooms open to the public, these include the Arms room the Sala dos Capelos (Ceremonial Hall ) and the yellow room.
Beyond the Arms room is the yellow room.
The Arms room again has a magnificent painted ceiling. But this pales into insignificance once you see the Ceremonial Hall (Sala dos Capelos ) this is where most official ceremonies are held including oral exams......
The ceiling alone is a work of art.
Of course you had to pass the spooky statues to get there, anyone with an interest in Dr Who will understand why Lynne is not blinking or looking away!
Most in remarkable state of preservation.
We soon needed some fresh air and luckily it was possible to step out onto a balcony to enjoy the breeze.
Lynne is holding one of the many information sheets thoughtfully provided, in several languages for visitors (and you thought I was really clever!)
We returned to the University and wandered towards the private examination room , which is surrounded by lecture theatres.
These branch off from a beautiful shady cloistered courtyard decorated with the ubiquitous blue tiles.
So I cheated and downloaded a picture from the internet, again pictures do it little justice, its magnificent, dating from the 1700s. Interestingly it also has its own resident bat colony which is tolerated as they eat insects.
By now we were looking for refreshment and shade and as we walked towards the Science museum we were distracted by the........
New Cathedral, not many towns have two......
Its a beautiful building, the guilded alterpieces are without question stunning in their detail, the two side alters however held niches of we could only imagine were remains of saints behind glass.
Indeed as we went further into quiet rooms behind the side alters it became apparent the this Cathedral held a great many body parts of saints held in reliquaries.
I think they are rather strange and not a little disturbing.....
In beautiful and vivid colours.....
Of course slightly overshadowed by the golden Altarpiece and silver tabernacle?
I will continue this post in another as I am conscious its getting rather long!
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