Santiago de Compostella

So this was it, the end of the Camino, the finale of the way. True to form we would walk non of it, we sailed the majority of the northern way and we would link A Coruña to Santiago by train.

Spanish trains have improved no end from my last experience of them, all credit to RENFE, they are now on time, clean, new, and they can exceed walking pace. For a small amount of euros we had booked a ticket ( this includes a seat number, so you have a guaranteed seat, British rail and French railways take note ) a forty minute ride through the Spanish countryside and we arrived at Santiago de Compostela. I had expected a crowd on the train but I was wrong. Regardless of the fact that it was July the 25th and the feast of St James, the train was less than half full.

We had no idea where to go but luckily found a map showing an outline of the old town. We walked in the general direction following along with a group obviously going to see the festivities.

Soon we cam upon the outskirts of the old town and a lottery seller gave us directions to the Tourist information, and armed with our all important map we headed towards the Cathedral via a cafe for a small coffee. We are becoming very predictable!

We arrived at one of the side doors to the Cathedral and were a little disappointed to see the size of the queue, it stretched back into the square and then we were dismayed to discover wound back several streets to re-emerge at the bottom of the steps, the end of the queue was in sight of the beginning but separated by 6 or 7 hundred metres. A truly massive queue of people waiting to celebrate mass, of which there were several through out the day.

We wandered into the square of the dead and noticed a much smaller queue of people at a side door, this was the entrance to the tomb and sepulchre of St James. 

The entrance was firmly locked and apparently was only opened once a year and only when St James Day fell on a Sunday. However there was also a rumour that Pope Francis had declared that it could be opened as it was the year of Misericord. All a little sketchy I have to admit but gradually more and more people were joining the smaller queue for the great bronze door.

After an hour of waiting in the broiling sun the miracle happened and the great bronze door was opened and the gates thrown back to allow entry. We had no idea what to expect but shuffled along into the great sepulchre itself. This is a fantastic gold, metal and guilt construction of enormous proportions and difficult to appreciate at first it was so multi fasceted and baroque, wherever you looked there was yet more detail or yet another splendid aspect, quite breathtaking.

Unfortunately photography wasn't allowed, we walked into the very body of the wonderfully ornate gilded sepulchre, climbed steps up behind the alter and got to give the embrace to St James as we looked out on the Cathedral from behind the bronze statue onto a full church congregation enjoying mass. I'll be honest and admit to giving the statue a heartfelt pat on the back rather than a full hug. Very moving and not a little scary with such a large audience. After the statue the steps led down to a crypt that contained the holy remains. Lynne and I lingered a moment as we were so to speak at the very epicentre, the spiritual heart of the Cathedral, and the ultimate goal of those who embark on the way. I for one felt I could empathise with those pilgrims leaving offerings as although we had not walked the way our journey here had not been without a degree of suffering! We were not allowed at this point into the body of the Cathedral but were led out back into the square through yet another side door.

This led directly back to the square which had filled up with people celebrating Galicia day.

There were bands, bagpipes, and banners. All very colourful and interesting. Lynne and I after our pilgrims sufferage queueing in the sun were in need of food and so walked back into the old town and were lucky enough to find a restaurant with a free table. An excellent lunch was had with outstanding service. Lynne had salmon.

Refreshed now in body as well as spirit we walked back towards the Cathedral through the many winding streets of the old town. A feature of St James Day and I must admit to having no idea why it should be is the parade of the giant people.

I have no clue as to why this happens but it does make for a colourful spectacle!

We enjoyed watching some local groups performing traditional drum and bagpipe music back in the square of the dead. Lynne then noticed that there was no enormous queue outside the Cathedral door and so we wandered over to see if we could enter and look around. Wonder of wonders, apart from a bag inspection we made it inside easily. Of course there would not be a mass so we would not get to see the great botafumiero being swung by eight priests but we would at least see the Cathedral.

We were lucky to have happened on the time between masses and were able to view the body of this magnificent Cathedral.

The Sepulcre and it's astonishing gold gilded carvings was the most obvious attraction for the eye, but after looking a while my gaze was drawn to the painted roof and pillars.

Beneath which hangs the famous 'botafumiero'.

The organ pipes are quite exceptionally grand as well.

We had been incredibly lucky, we had been in the Sepulcre, walked through the great bronze doors that never open ( thanks to Pope Francis ) and seen the Cathedral on what must be the busiest days of the year, miraculously avoiding queues. As we now had time to linger we availed ourselves of some wandering time and looked into most of the side chapels.

 one in particular stood out because of its frescos.

It was adjacent to the Sepulcre and may have had something to do with it, certainly the shell motif was very evident.

Soon we wandered back into the old town and it's typical warren of small streets. We headed for the park where we were hoping to find a shady tree.

This was becoming a priority as it was getting seriously hot, traditionally we are told St James Day is the hottest day of the year and I can well believe it!

The views back towards the old city are stunning and will be much improved without the scaffolding.

There were other characters to discover in the park, of course a bronze statue on a bronze bench can get very hot, which is why Lynne is on tippy toes!

Another unusual sight was this cafe which had been built without disturbing the trees on the site.

The trees just grew through the building, brilliant!

The fun fair and balloon sellers were doing a good trade as we walked back towards the city.

It was getting near to the time of our train but we still had time for a coffee so decided to go back to the main square in front of the cathedral and try the cafe in the Catholic Hotel.

This occupied one flank of the square and is a very imposing building in itself as well as a superb place to stay.

 It's possible to enjoy a drink in the hotels cool courtyard inside but we decided to try the small side terrace so we could watch the world go by. There are also some lovely views back towards the park and the hills beyond.

The heat was still quite oppressive and the stone flags were getting decidedly hot underfoot. However our luck continued as we found the last shady table.

By now it was early evening and after a coffee and a bit of people watching we walked back down the hill to catch our train which was gloriously air-conditioned. It was a non stop 25 minute ride back into A Coruña.

We broke our journey back in The old quarter and discovered a bar Selling Newcastle  Brown Ale On draft.

Perfect end to a really nice day..........

It had been a memorable experience, if I were to visit again I would consider staying a few days, the fireworks the night before St James Day are spectacular I am told and Lynne would very much have liked to attend a mass, I think I would too, just to see that enormous botafumiero in action!