a sad end...

We awoke early to get away, taking advantage of the brief shift to easterly's which would enable us to at least do a short hop to Larache some 18 miles down the coast. This would mean a visit to the Gendarmerie so they could return our ships papers and a further bit of Moroccan beurocracy along with stowing our anchors it couldn't take more than an hour at most..
As I came on deck the police RIB was entering the harbour, it approached slowly and I noticed at first it had been blown up as its tubes looked tight, I also noticed that the three gendarmes were holding clothes over their faces, as we exchanged looks and a quick wave of acknowledgement I realised that they must have recovered a body. I think it was the grim look on their faces, unfortunately one I have seen before and one that seems to be universal. A short time later one of the coral boats, entered the harbour towing a jet ski. The story was unfolding and our departure was almost immediately put on hold as we had no desire to complicate matters further.

 We think the port may have been closed to pedestrians as the police and local fishermen  were the only people on the quayside. The jet-ski was lifted out using the giant crane that had been dismantling the floating platform and the police launch went around to the fish quay steps as an ambulance arrived with a spinal board. We watched as the body was treated with a great deal of care and respect. The police men had rudimentary paper masks on and it cannot have been a pleasant job as the divested the body of its buoyancy aid and other equipment. It was all done very discreetly but at one point a pale and grey arm was raised above the gunwale of the launch before the body was wrapped and carefully carried into the waiting ambulance. We later found out he had been in the water for up to 10 days. The police were reluctant to tell us anymore details about what was obviously a tragic accident, understandably.

We sat in the cockpit of Dark Tarn and had a serious think, we had already abandoned idea of leaving that day and it started a discussion about options. the Moroccan coast is not to be trifled with, most harbours are difficult to enter because of swell , sandbars or contrary currents. I think we both were also feeling the otherness of Morocco, the non existent health and safety, endless beurocracy to which the overwhelming friendliness to strangers provided a counterpoint. The weather was stubbornly against us as by the same afternoon the wind had returned to a persistent South westerly, where it would remain. We discussed going into the Mediteranean, and wintering in La Linea and exploring southern Spain by land. We also toyed with the idea of a winter up the guardiana.
We both felt we didn't want to sail into constant headwinds for another 350 miles before a 250 mile crossing to the Canaries. Having already arranged to have Dark Tarn sandblasted and painted in La Linea in March and having seen how difficult a return to mainland Spain could potentially be so early in the year we decided to rethink our plans.
These tend to be based on whether we are enjoying things and a kind of "stress-fun balance checklist". After the bar room brawl and the unfortunate victim of the sea being brought in to the harbour our psychological stress levels were a little uncomfortable. After a great deal of debate
we decided to cruise in Morocco for a while longer but to head East, back into the Mediteranean and winter in la Linea as we could then fly home for Christmas and get a lot of niggling jobs on the boat done in one place without having to do a weeks ocean crossing avoiding Atlantic weather fronts. We could also get to see Alhambra and Ronda, (not the one in Wales) hopefully along with some other bits of Andalucía.
Sometimes its good to reflect on what we do, and its dangers. A moments inattention or a weakness in the boat left unattended to, a failure in planning or preparation and the consequences can be very serious. Much as we love the sea and the people who live and work on and around it. She will always be a cruel mistress. The jet-ski has a range of 10-15 miles and its journey ended in Asilah.
Ours will continue …..