Our enforced, rather easily mind, stay on the Guadiana river continued. We tried , and succeeded in forgetting about the recent theft of our beloved outboard motor and we were determined not to let it spoil our growing appreciation of this rather beautiful and fascinating part of the world.
To which end we began our usual habit of exploring. An ancient castle on the Portuguese side of the river seemed a good start, it was actually a highlight of a walk on one of the first information boards you see when leaving the pontoons at Alcutim.
The hike soon leaves the small town and climbs via a dusty track past the hotel towards a prominent hill.
The country is arid but alive with the sound of insects, there are a lot of beehives scattered around the hills. The views of the river are lovely and it becomes apparent just how many yachts are lying to either moorings or are at anchor in the river.
For some reason the Castle remains are fenced off but not locked and it is possible to wander freely around the remains. There has apparently been a fortification on this site since Roman times.
A lone tree provided Lynne with some welcome shade while I continued to the low walled remains which took on a recognisable form as you gained some height.
The layout of the outer walls and gatehouse were apparent as was several internal structures. It is Moorish in origin and dates from the time of the muslim occupation of Portugal that modern Portuguese find difficult to accept insisting they were only here for a short time (actually 600 years)
After a rehydrate and good mooch around we continued the walk back towards Alcutim. The path descends and although the dusty road continues on we diverted down a scrubby track back towards the river through many almond bushes and semi desert vegetation.
A very enjoyable but undeniably hot walk and we were grateful to finally arrive at Alcutims hidden treasure, the river beach for a well earned ice tea and a swim.
This is situated just outside town on a dammed tributary of the Guadiana, its agreat place to chill, swim and enjoy a drink in the beach taverna. showers are provided and you can even play beach volleyball if the fancy takes you. Most of the inhabitants of both Alcutim and Sanlucar have learned to swim here.
Later in the week and back on the Spanish side of the river Portugal and Spain met in the World Cup.
Both Flags were given equal prominence in the Chiringuito bar. It was a very good night and amazingly sporting. Every goal was cheered and a draw was the best possible result.
This truly is what the beautiful game should be about bringing people together. Even though we were in Spain, Portuguese TV covered the evening for local news.
Portugal's best striker is probably Renaldo , who at one time played for Real Madrid. So it was easy for Spanish supporters to cheer him on. A fantastic night at which we were made very welcome in this small community.
We returned to the quay and the pontoon to see the new moon in the old moons arms and Venus high in the western sky.
I don't know whether there was a need to celebrate but the fountain "Fuente" had been turned on in Sanlucar so we in turn celebrated with a drink at Sanlucar`s other bar, El Pozo.
Having collected two Portuguese Castles, it really was time to go up the frankly very steep and imposing El Castillo de San Marcos which stands imposingly above Sanlucar,
This has recently been fully restored, not without some controversy as the stark whitewashed exterior although authentic was felt by some to be over restored, It certainly stands out on the skyline and being someone unused to the previous unrestored grey ruin I think its great...…
Once the start of the footpath to the summit is located its a steady climb towards the small hut that is the launch point for the zip-wire, unique in Europe as it starts in one country (Spain) and after crossing the river finishes in another (Portugal)
In the photo above the launch point can be seen far middle right.
and here is a bit of the cross border people smuggling in action!
As you approach the Castle it really is quite imposing, the restoration includes parking and helpful signage. But however you cut it, it is a steep and very hot climb on foot.....
There is a small museum which we directed too by the very helpful curator after he had put on a useful video of the history of the castle , in English , just for us...
Below is a photo of the castle before restoration.
The views from the battlements are astonishing, seemingly all of the hinterland of Andalucía is spread out before you.
You also got a great view of the good ship Dark Tarn, or at least her mast, down in Sanlucar de Guardiana below.
We enjoyed the various (and all splendid ) views from the various battlements and also the soaring swifts riding the thermals.
The lovely curator could see that we were in need of refreshment and mentioned to us that cold drinks were available, these turned out to be in a small (and well hidden) bar just off a small chapel.
When the restoration is complete there will be a small cafe and information centre here.
The internal walls have deliberately left patches that retain the original rendering and whitewash.
I think it looks splendid, particularly lit up in the evening and viewed from Alcutim. Dark Tarn is directly underneath on the pontoon and is the boat with the black hull.
In Alcutim there was a small fire and we had an invite to attend. So along with the Magnets (Jim and Megan) we turned up. Apparently it keeps the witches away, however being born on Halloween gives me a get out card for fire jumping.
Midsummer celebrations continued in Spain with another invite to attend a medieval night at the local school. quite a lot of the permanent residents, Boat people who have become a part of the local community The Magnets again kept us company and as usual we turned up far too early. The main event was scheduled for sunset.
Meantime we were entertained, the man playing the saxophone is another Guadiana Brit, who lives on a property just up the river, he is also a world class saxophonist.
After dark we were treated to a performance of a "silent play", this was Where `The Wild Things Are`. I must admit the costumes and lighting were very atmospheric, particularly the dragon.
The children were brilliant.
Even the trees were decorated.
Definitely a night to remember, I could almost feel the Guadiana glue creeping over my feet, Lynne and I had already started looking at property, maybe we should leave soon?
I had decided to explore upriver on what turned out to be a brilliant footpath which if I had decided to would take me back to Huelva or even if I chose I could follow through the Algarve and eventually up to A Coruna and Santiago de la Compostela.
As it turned out I just walked a few miles up the river, This was a well that I happened upon and a few local guys who were whitewashing it let me help myself from the nearby orange grove.
I turned back and as I walked the path back into Sanlucar I noticed a tour boat coming upriver through the anchored yachts and again I felt my feet get just a bit more stuck in the earth. How nice would it be to just stop moving and just stay in this spot where we both felt we had made so many friends.
That's just how the Guadiana glue gets you!
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