Peniche and a glimpse into the recent past

This is the rather curious entrance to the fort at Peniche. At first I thought, well there's another Napoleonic fortress, with obvious later additions, including rather a lot of yellow paint. The reality says quite a lot about Portugal, and it has to be said about my ignorance of its recent history.

Lynne and I had had a quick look around the town before wandering over to the impressive fortress that dominates the harbour entrance. It has been many things in the past however the recent history is one of political struggle. This is quite nicely symbolised by a sculpture inside the fortress

The flock of seabirds gently move to the breeze independently atop their slender poles, occasionally colliding sending a musical note outwards, below is a cage like structure adorned with ribbons each representing a name. The symbolism is obvious and quite moving when seen in situ. Portugal had a fascist regime in place from the 1930s until the mid 70s (the Salazar regime) and the fortress at Peniche was used to house political prisoners.Usually communist party members and activists.

Inside although a lot of the impressions are softened by nice lawned areas and palm trees which are obviously a later addition it is still possible to catch a glimpse of the grimness that must have been the daily lot of prisoners here. We walked around the exercise yard which still has its observation tower.

It also, if you care to dig beneath the surface, (literally ) shows some of its history prior to recent events.

A small opening allows you to descend into the subterranean world of the vast cistern that lies under the yard.

There is also a small chapel that from its austere exterior doesn't even look like a place of worship however.

upon entering a neat and for a Catholic place of worship quite Spartan interior reveals itself.

There are several displays of letters and artefacts from the prisoners, unfortunately mostly in Portugese, however there was a video playing with English subtitles showing interviews with former prisoners. This reminded us both just how recently these injustices had come to an end. 1976, was the year Lynne and I met. the picture below shows the citizens of Peniche demonstrating and forcing the release of the prisoners in 1974.

Life was indeed grim, the prisoners were locked up for over 20 hours a day and even speaking to each other was not allowed without permission.

The large yellow building we had seen coming into the port turned out to be the solitary block and amazingly was the scene of an escape down the cliffs and into the sea followed by a swim to freedom! The communist escapee was Alvero Cunhal in 1960.

From the top of the fortress we could see back towards the port and marina where Dark Tarn lay on the outside of the wave breaker pontoon (not the most comfortable spot ) however I felt we were far more comfortable than the recent inmates of Fortress Peniche!

As you can see our old friend the fog was waiting just offshore again........